Agraria Farmers and Fishers

Dark restaraunts and point'n'shoot cameras do not mix well.

Agraria Farmers & Fishers is one of a string of businesses that have taken up residence at a large space on the Georgetown waterfront. Having been by that place numerous times throughout the years, it would seem that that particular location just has some bad luck running through it with the amount of turnover, and Agraria is the latest in establishments who are out to see if they can break that streak.

The restaurant is huge. Absolutely huge. For a place that’s owned by the North Dakota Farmer’s Union, you’d think these country boys have more money than they know what to do with. The decor is a strange mix of down-home country details with modern textures and architecture which takes a little while to get used to, but turns out to be a really well executed implementation of the idea. Giant mason jars of preserves line the bar, back-lit with soft lights and coupled with hard liquor. The tableclothes are the vinyl checkered pattern you see at country BBQ restaurants, and the floral covered booths are a nod to the look so popular in the Midwest. Even the wait staff is decked out in rumpled plaid shirts and jeans, all tying in to the theme of a modern, high-end country restaurant.

Agraria's booths

The menu is extensive, to the point where it’s completely overwhelming. Menu items are broken out to sections, but still, there are a number of choices of delicious dishes, all using locally sourced foods (when possible) straight to salivating mouth. So locavores will be extremely happy to see that Agraria meets their own dietary restrictions and needs.

The one problem that we encountered was that the restaurant was out of bleu cheese sauce and goat cheese, so all the dishes using those two ingredients were off the availability list. This turned out to be a fairly big problem for Jen, as almost all the dishes she could eat as a vegetarian were immediately stricken from the list. Still, she’s a trooper, and made do with her selections.

She started off with the butternut squash soup. Creamy and sweet, it’s a perfect dish to enjoy as the weather starts getting colder outside. A definite winner for both of us. Much better than the Steamy Bowl of Rocks and Salty Cheese Soup, which I’ve heard they have removed from the menu from rather unanimous (un)popularity.

Butternut Squash Soup

Her main course was the Housemade Papardelle with Heirloom Tomatoes and Roasted Garlic. She wasn’t a fan of this at all, but she doesn’t really enjoy savory starches, and the flavor was very subtle with this dish, with an emphasis on the garlic flavor rather than being covered in a thick creamy sauce, which probably would have appealed to her more. She gave up on this dish less than a third of the way through, to which, as her doting boyfriend, I resigned to finishing it for her. That included the mandatory thumping of my chest and screaming in triumph after I had done so.

Every.

Last.

Bite.

Papardelle Noodles with Heirloom Tomatoes and Garlic

I thought the Papardelle noodles were off the chain good. I love thick cut noodles like this, even thicker and wider than fettuccine, which is a rarity to see being offered.

I ordered the Chocolate Dipped Bacon Lollipops, which were fantastic. If I had one complaint, it would be that there just wasn’t enough bacon that came with the dish for the price. Six chunks of bacon skewered and dipped in milk chocolate, served on an apple. It’s been a concoction I’ve been waiting for the right opportunity to try, and it did not disappoint. Who would have though that bacon and chocolate were as natural of a combination as some of the finer things in life. Kool-Aid and sugar. Peanut butter and jelly. Ham and burger. Classic.

Chocolate Dipped Bacon Lollipops

Next up, I ordered the Grilled Baja Heritage Truck-Style Tacos. A triplet of tacos in fresh made corn tortillas, served with a cup of fresh salsa and a cup of cream sauce (I wasn’t sure exactly what the sauce was, but damn it was tasty) and well put together. The tacos were just filled enough so that none of the ingredients would fall out (sturdy tortillas that don’t break are also crucial here) but not under-filled to the point where you would feel that you’re not getting your dollahs worth. Not the best tacos I’ve had in DC, but decent.

Heritage Truck-Style Baja Fish Tacos

And then there’s the main course. The Sweet Potato Gnudi. These people don’t dick around, you either the full Gnudi here, or you get shown the door.

All Gnudi...but tastefully done!

Really though, in comparison to Kora’s gnudi, this one doesn’t even compete at the same level. Kora’s gnudi wins, hands down. The amount of gnudi on the plate was a bit lacking, so it was good that I had ordered the tacos as a second appetizer, and the fact that I had Jen’s Pappardelle to close. The gnudi here isn’t nearly as smooth and has a texture reminiscent of gnocchi. It still satisfies my dumpling desires, but their version of a full gnudi is really a half gnudi. And as anyone can tell you, when you only get a half of the amount gnudi you’re expecting at night, you’re going to go home with some sadness in the pants.

Sweet Potato Gnudi in a Sage and Citrus Butter Sauce and a Balsamic Glaze

It’s nice to have a restaurant that subscribes to sustainable agriculture and poses as a super friendly environment to those who might be interested in high society eatin’, but without the silly pretense. Agraria Farmers & Fishes does just that. Their dishes can be hit or miss depending on your tastes, although they definitely go and take some risks and come with winners. Jen and I would give this place a second try, but not without a precursory call to make sure they’re not out of the goat cheese again.

Plus, they have some wicked awesome knives. I think the waiter said that these knives were the ones our predecessors used to kill raptors and land roving sharks in prehistoric times.

That's a knife.

See Agraria Farmers & Fishers on a map here.

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